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alpha hydroxy acids

alpha hydroxy acids

I keep hearing about alpha hydroxy acids, but I feel clueless! What are they and what do they do to my skin?

 
Alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA, is a general term used to describe a variety of skin-safe acids, like glycolic (derived from sugar cane), malic (derived from apples) and lactic (derived from milk), which exfoliate your skin chemically rather than manually (like with a grainy scrub or washcloth). AHAs slough off the dead skin cells by breaking up the chemical bonds they have with the surface of your skin.
What can this exfoliation do for your skin? It is actually great for just about every skin type because it helps eliminate the build-up of dead cells that can clog your pores and cause blemishes, and it can make your skin replace old, damaged cells with new, fresher ones faster. With continued use, an AHA can make fine lines soften, improve your skin’s overall texture and color, and reduce the number and severity of breakouts.
Unfortunately, not all AHAs are created equally, but you don’t have to pay $50 or $75 for a fancy department store brand to see results; many of the inexpensive drugstore brands are actually more effective. When shopping for an AHA product, here are a few things to keep in mind:
1. Make sure the AHA you choose has at least one of the well-known, proven AHA ingredients, like glycolic, lactic, malic, or even tartaric (from red wine) acid. Products labelled with only “miscellaneous fruit acids” have not been proven to work as effectively, although they can sound persuasive from a “natural versus chemical” standpoint.
2. AHAs come in lotions, creams, and serums/gels, so choose the one that best suits your skin type. Lotions are great for most any skin type, creams are for drier skin, and serums or gels work well for someone with oily or acne-prone skin.
3. AHAs can make your skin more sensitive and vulnerable to sun damage, so be sure to use them in conjunction with a daily sunscreen that has at least SPF 15 broad spectrum protection.
4. AHAs can cause some irritation, even if you aren’t usually sensitive, so stick to a “less is more” philosophy. If you are just starting with an AHA, use a low percentage (4-5% concentration), gentle product only once a day, or once every other day. If your skin reacts well to it, consider increasing to daily morning and night use.
Mild stinging when you first apply an AHA is normal, but it should subside after a minute or two. Continued stinging is not considered normal, so you should immediately stop using any product that irritates your skin. If you try using it again in smaller amounts or less frequently and it still causes a problem, don’t be afraid to return it to the store for a refund.
Here are a few brands to consider:
• Alpha Hydrox 5% lotion for sensitive skin, 8% lotion, or 10% enhanced oil-free gel (glycolic acid)
• Pond’s Age Defying Complex (8% glycolic acid)
• Avon Anew All-in-One Perfecting Complex (4% glycolic) or All-in-One Intensive Complex (8% glycolic)
• Skinplicity (from Sears) All Even AHA serum (8% lactic acid)
• Neutrogena Healthy Skin Face Lotion (8% glycolic acid)
• Philosophy Hope in a Jar (lactic acid)
• BeautiControl Regeneration Gold (lactic and tartaric acids)

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